TOT-HOM COLLECTION F/W 16.17 IN MEMORY OF MARGARITA JOVANI
“Quality is remembered long after price is forgotten.”
04X16 – BARCELONA.
The inspiration of the handed-down ‘Tot-hom’ is supported by names of the Spanish scenario such as Ana Belén, Isabel Presyler, Judith Mascó, Carmen Lomana and Amaia Salamanca in the television series ‘Velvet’, thus showing the formal and informal side of the brand today.
In Barcelona, the Catalonia lounge at the Hotel Princesa Sofia resembled the sanctuary of some of the high Catalan society ladies during the second of the two annual events, nothing simple to describe. Rosa Mairal de Rabat, Isabel Suqué, Mo (Maria Teresa) Samaranch Salisachs and Mar Raventós, among others.
The prestigious brand, through the union and the strength of the family, has built a panoramic view of skills and passion that gave form to the presentation of the collection F(all)/W(inter) 16.17 of Haute Couture, Prêt-à-porter, ready-to-wear Línea A and Bridal in memory of Margarita Jovani, who died this summer. Marta Rota dedicated the collection to her mother, a synonym of character and delicacy. In the years in which a single annual call was held, around 4.000 guests hoped it without missing even one. In fact, the organization planned 3 day-shows and they numbered invitations so that nobody could repeat.
Based on this historical trademark, a laboratory of ideas from which every 6 months blooms a collection, Tot-hom’ suggestions for this F(all)/W(inter) 16.17 season called 16 models ready to stroll the red carpet in its attires and accessories on a total of 12 occasions. Precisely, accessories hold a special interest: cosmopolitan sneakers, British-styled moccasin and exclusive accessories by ‘Carmina Rotger’ slightly around necklines, an unconditional brand guided by sisters Ariadna and Marta García.
‘Tot-hom’ opened the show with refreshing urban combinations of midi-pants, dresses and skirts, asymmetrical sweaters and sleeve, trimmed wool, cashmere and tweet blazers and cardigans from basic neutral colors grey, brown, white and black, very much black, describing a perfect all-rounder woman according to confort without leaving aside its taste for fashion. And the color of this season is a demanding eclectic pink, a current related to the ancient times, to the philosophy, in which the worship to the art, to the past and to the identity takes over ‘Tot-hom’ in all its variations and collections. Goethe’s reading, the purity of spirit and greatness means serving of the coherent inspiration.
These neat, agile, actual and accessible ready-to-wear Línea A proposals made way to conservative others in the fabrics (Scottish tweed, velvet, the patterned upholstery) and contemporary in its image for pants, dresses and large coats without renouncing the classicism of the traditional British style, which enjoys the veteran’s status. That moment took me back to London’s Savile Row, the golden mile for gentlemen’s Haute Couture, in a female key.
A certain influence of guerrillas’ spirit arose in one of the happiest autumn reunions: the equestrian full-leg boots adorned with fringes. Boots can transform a styling from top down and to decide the cut takes time, because if the length of the skirt and the upper of the boot don’t fit, the look breaks with the proportions of the garments. And thus ‘Tot-hom’ showed this way, 3 or 4 fingers below the dress, a tidy conception.
Tot-hom also stands out by its fabulous shirts of various collars, cuffs and buttons.
Everything happened under a background soundtrack that certainly mixed emotions for the designers, among a mishmash of models of unlike beauty from which I distinguished familiar faces that take part in all of Tot-hom’ shows, because there are traditions that last.
This multi-layered-autumn-styling Prêt-à-porter: leggins + tulle skirt + shirt + sweater + coat, with maxi-coats in soft pink quartz and sky blue colors and diamond pattern midi-socks, led to the clean and outstanding evening outfits, Tot-hom’s predilection. Worked backs, transparencies, discrete and not-so-discrete frills that are reminiscent of the brushstrokes of a genius, hand-embroidered rhinestones and feathers in sculptural dresses dominated its Haute Couture collection, a true reflection of its femininity.
Towards the end of the show, when Tot-hom outlined a vivid acid-green silk 2-piece-dress, it became the star of the collection. It had such nobility… With an almost devastating simplicity, Tot-Hom made women look classy and artistic yet simultaneously naive and stunning. And then Sarah Jessica Parker came to my mind: Jennifer Hudson singing ‘All dressed in love’ in the fanciful ‘Sex & the City II’ (2010), of overwhelming success, when I saw her modelling some designs by Halston and Halston Heritage brand. Its designer, Roy Halston, came to fame in 1961 with the Box hat that Jaqueline Kennedy wore at the official opening ceremony of her husband John Kennedy. I am convinced that Halston and Tot-hom would had liked each other from the very first day.
Carmen Valiño (Madrid) and Daniela Tonello (Barcelona, Manager of the genuine magazine ‘Barcelona Divina’) worked together in tandem, creating an harmonious balance of cooperation. The organization conveyed a message of intersection between past and future at the disposal of the show with long rows of sheathed seats surrounding the runway. And I once again had the opportunity to exchange greetings and words with the three designers: “consensus is our policy”.
In Paris, all Haute Couture editions are involving a fashion show participation by a bride dress closing it and ‘Tot-hom’, as usual, provided the show’s finishing touch by presenting its latest one, because the fabrics, embroidery and patterns… also marry. As if it were a subversive elegance, with expression and taste, the designers included details of the inheritance of the house. A sweet and pleasant bride in a dazzling princess-like two-piece sleeveless wedding dress of white volumes-skirt of chiffon and tulle. The embroidered veil with white flowers and green leaves. The embroidered vest-like bodice closed at the back. The diadem, embroidered with the same motives.
A collection that will smell the past.
‘Tot-hom’ aimed higher in this show. It was a big test for the designers Marta Rota, Creative Director and Tot-hom’s founder, Alejandra and Andrea Osés. The idea of in memory of the matriarch was the sense of spraying the smell from the past to the present, the essence of a Margarita Jovani dressmaker, artist and teacher that became a reality.
The production couldn’t end differently: an overjoyed Marta succesfully addressing to their hands clapped audience, waving and fleeting loving kisses. Following her, her modest daughters Alejandra Osés and Andrea Osés, clapping and smiling, a fact somehow conventional. Signs that I welcome because they work together to fight for the season and to pay their last respects on the catwalk to Margarita Jovani.
It was quite so Tot-hom!
Written by Adelaida Subías
Photo Credits: Tot-hom & Adelaida Subías
Editing & producing by Renovatio©